Monday, 7 November 2011

Chamonix Oct

With a fully loaded car (thanks Paul, MBC) Paul Prentice, Lindsay Yule, Paul Smith and myself set off for Chamonix on Friday 21st. By the Saturday morning we had arrived and were readying ourselves for the following day.
Sunday morning dawned and we were on the first Telepherique up the Aiguille du Midi.

                                    Paul Smith trying to recover from the night before!!

                               After about 8 rappels we reached the foot of the Burnier Vogler Gully.

                                      On the calf destroying easier terrain.

                                         Lindsay 1 pitch from the Cosmiques ridge.

           After this great little climb, we descended the Cosmiques Ridge to the Abri Simond Bivy Hut.

We had hoped to climb the following morning on the East Face of the Tacul.  But me and Paul Smith felt like shit due to poor acclimatisation.

                                         So back up the Arete des Cosmiques for us.

Following day was overcast and windy, so we decided to give any climbing a miss.

With a promising forecast on the Wednesday, we set of from the Les Grand Montets car park for The Ginat route on Les Droites.


             5.5hrs later and we were on the Argentiere Glacier looking for a decent bivi spot.


Looking over to the Colton-Brooks.


Only 5 more pitches to go!

On the walk in I felt incredibly weak and sick. Thinking I'd be better in the morning, I decided to stay the night at the bivi site.
We set off at 04:30 for the start of the Ginat. But after a couple of hrs I realised I wasn't well enough to continue. Painful decision, but it was the right one.

                                                              First light on my walk out!!!

Couple of days later and I was feeling much better.
Not wanting to lose what little acclimatisation I had gained, I headed for the first lift up the Aiguille Du Midi.
First person down the ridge and across to the Triangle. I climbed 4 pitches of the Chere Couloir.

                                                    The 6 other teams I met on my rappel.


                                            Rapped off using mega light Tag line.

                                   It was then a quick blast up the Cosmiques Ridge.

Met up with the Guys early afternoon for a spot of shopping.  Gels and energy bars by the dozen were bought.

                                          Following morning we got the train up to Montenvers.

                                                          Grand Jorasses.

Crossing the Bergshrund late afternoon on the Croz Spur.

                                                Lindsay and Paul at our bivi for the night.

                                            The Man that snored for 5 hrs!!!

                                                          The next morning

                                                        Lindsay happy on the Croz.

                                                           4 pitches to go!

We finally topped out and started to abseil down towards the Glacier. Now dark, and with little knowledge of the descent, we decided to bivi near to the Rocher du Reposoir.

                                                  Following morning was stunning.

                                    Well earned rest at the Refuge Boccalate.

                                     Looking back up towards the Grand Jorasses

                                          Courmayeur, food and beer this way...

                                      Following day was spent dry tooling at La Fayet.

                                                                     Till the next time..

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