Monday morning was grim with rain, mist and light winds. Temps were above freezing. Not a great day for standing around on belays so we decided to do Zero Gully V,4** The ice was very good to climb on, but rubbish for screws. Vast amounts of spindrift were also coming down off the windy summit, making it an even grimmer experience. In 300m of climbing I think we placed 9 pieces of pro. Just a typical day on Zero really.
|This is the only photo of our day on Zero. Sums it up really.|
On our way back to the CIC we dropped down No 3 gully and noticed that the buttresses were pretty white with Hoar. So the plan was set for Darth Vader VII,7*** or Sioux Wall VIII,8*** on Tuesday morning. During monday night it rained pretty hard, so it was no surprise that when we reached No 3 the following morning, the buttress was black. Guy Steven had a look at a black Cornucopia VII,8* and salvaged his day on Thompson's Route IV,4***
We salvaged ours by starting up Gremlins VI,6 then finished up Thomson's ourselves.
|Start Of Gremlins|
|The Grivel Masters and their masters :-/|
Still beats going to work, whatever the weather.