Monday 14 February 2011

SCNL 13th Feb

Wet start for me and Paul Smith this morning. The rain soon turned to heavy snow above 500m, but thankfully the forecasted wind didn't materialize.
A careful approach to Central Buttress on Stob Coire Nan Lochan was needed in waist deep snow, I was relieved  to reach the foot of our intended route Central Grooves VII,7***
I could barely look up the first pitch with so much fresh snow and sluff coming down, but I battled on up the first pitch. Clearing cracks was almost impossible at times as they refilled instantly with a constant stream of sluff.

After bringing up Paul, the snow had eased a little, making it that little bit more bearable.

Paul was happy for me to do all the pitches, so off I went up the excellent sustained but well protected 2nd pitch. Pitch 3 had the most awkward move at the start, having to mantle onto a small shelf and reach high for a small crack which allowed you to stand up.It probably was still easier than the previous 2 pitches at about VI,7 perhaps some good ice or neve makes the move a little easier.

Pitch 4 was a easy romp to the top.

I was a bit concerned about descending Broad Gully with so much fresh snow about, but fortunately there was a guided team (guinea pigs) testing it out in front of us. Awesome bum slide back to our sacks.

Only one photo today.

Top day out.

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