Ben Nevis Trident Buttress

21/01/07

Ben Nevis

Trident Buttress

Jubilation IV,4

It was heavy going walking up from the CIC hut into Coire Na Ciste. At times the Snow was waist deep. We decided to do Jubilation IV,4 which looked in condition.
I set off up the first pitch on wet steep ice (80 deg) for about 50m and belayed on good in-situ gear.
I brought Dan up on a very tight rope. This was his first ever Ice Climb. Then up came Nathan. By the time we were up the first pitch, it had started to snow and the wind picked up blowing lots of spindrift around.
Nathan set of towards the next short ice pitch. When I reached his stance I noticed that the upper snow bowl was fully loaded.
I set off hugging the side of the Buttress, and after about 5 m a slab Avalanche was triggered. Get some gear in I thought then onto safer ground!!!
After a few more pitches we topped out with huge cornices to our left and right hand side.

Well done to Dan for his first winter route in appalling conditions.

Photo is of Dan pulling over first ice pitch.