Mixed Picks

Wednesday, 14 September 2011

Chamonix Sept

I've not blogged much this season, but hopefully with a good winter ahead of us I'll try to have a photographic account of our travels.

I'd bought and converted a VW Transporter in to a campervan during the summer.

So me and John Glendinning made good use of it and headed off to France during September.
First port of call was Fontainebleau for some Bouldering action.

It was then a toss up between the Verdon or Chamonix.

8hrs later we were in Chamonix.

To get acclimatised we headed up the Aiguille du Midi for the classic Rebuffat route on the SE Pillar.

The following morning was windy and the Midi was closed.

So we decided to drive over to La Fouly and climb the Amone Slab on the Dalle de L'Amone.

John damaged both his big toes on the previous 2 routes!! For him, wearing rock shoes was unbearable, so I climbed with a guy from the camp site we were staying at.

Me and Bradley headed up for a day on Envers Slab for Les Vertiges De L'automne

To finish off our few days in Cham, me and John had a blast up the Petite Verte.

Top Week

Monday, 6 June 2011

Pass and Gogarth

Me and John Glendinning headed for the sunniest part of the UK last Saturday. Llanberis being the place to be!
We had a great afternoon climbing on the sun drenched walls of Dinas Cromlech.
Ticking the classics of Cenotapth Corner E1,5c and Left Wall E2,5c and finishing off with a spot of bouldering.

Tent up, Bar meal, then too much to drink...

Sunday we had a slow start due to rain in the Llanberis Pass. So down with the tent and we headed for Anglesey.
Only one place for me on Anglesey - Gogarth.

We missed our chance of getting along the base of Main Wall for the Big Groove due to a rising tide and settled for the excellent Resolution Direct E2,5b

Great routes and weekend.

Starting up Cenotaph

John just before crux on Cenotaph

Busy on Left Wall

Bouldering in the Pass

Me on the approach to Main Wall

Starting up Resolution Direct

Wednesday, 25 May 2011

Riglos

Just had 4 great days climbing in Riglos with Graeme Read.
From Barcelona Airport we took our hire car on the 4hr drive to Riglos.
We stayed at the Refugio de Riglos in the centre of town which is clean and cheap as chips At 15euros a night.

From here you could walk to any one of the main climbing area's in about 20 min's
We did take the car one day to the bird of prey centre, which leaves you with a easy walk to the likes of La Aguja Roja.
The Guide book for the area Riglos, Aguero y Foz de Escalete can be bought from the Refugio ,or up the road at Bar El Puro.

We did 11 routes in 4 days of climbing. Only touching the surface really. Another couple of trips should see us through most of the classics.

Start of Fiesta De Los Biceps

Sun just starting to kiss the Wall

I fell off leading this pitch. A hold broke!. Not a pleasant feeling when your 250m above the ground, and trying to swing back onto the rock.

AIR

Look close!? I Captured this guy mid base Jump.

Sleepy Riglos

Another Base Jumper came buzzing past us.

10PM

Bolt theft must be a problem!

Graeme Cruising up Mosquitos

The Awesome Fire

Catalogue image on Pecho Lobo

Pecho Lobo

High up on Visera. Thanks to Belen

Me mid route on Visera.

Wednesday, 4 May 2011

Awesome April

Winter now seems such a long time ago.
It's not been my most active winter climbing season, but I have learned to ski which is a bonus.
It all seemed to finish a little too early. It was April 23rd last year when I climbed my last route of the season Kellett's Route VI,6 on the Ben in fantastic conditions, and routes were still in nick through the early part of May.

This past month has been great, with trips to :-
Great Wanney
Great End Crag
Quayfoot Buttress
Pavey Ark
Scafell (twice)
East Woodburn
Buachaille Etive Mor (Slime Wall)
Glen Lednock

Ticking 2 of the best E2's in the Country. Shibboleth E2,5c **** and Saxon E2,5c *** which normally take a long time to dry out has been my highlight this month.