Pass and Gogarth

Me and John Glendinning headed for the sunniest part of the UK last Saturday. Llanberis being the place to be!
We had  a great afternoon climbing on the sun drenched walls of  Dinas Cromlech.
Ticking the classics of Cenotapth Corner E1,5c and Left Wall E2,5c and finishing off with a spot of bouldering.

Tent up, Bar meal, then too much to drink...

Sunday we had a slow start due to rain in the Llanberis Pass. So down with the tent and we headed for Anglesey.
Only one place for me on Anglesey - Gogarth.

We missed our chance of getting along the base of Main Wall for the Big Groove due to a rising tide and settled for the excellent Resolution Direct E2,5b

Great routes and weekend.

Starting up Cenotaph

John just before crux on Cenotaph

Busy on Left Wall

Bouldering in the Pass

Me on the approach to Main Wall

Starting up Resolution Direct

Riglos

Just had 4 great days climbing in Riglos with Graeme Read.
From Barcelona Airport we took our hire car on the 4hr drive to Riglos.
We stayed at the Refugio de Riglos in the centre of town which is clean and cheap as chips At 15euros a night.

From here you could walk to any one of the main climbing area's in about 20 min's
We did take the car one day to the bird of prey centre, which leaves you with a easy walk to the likes of  La Aguja Roja.
The Guide book for the area Riglos, Aguero y Foz de Escalete can be bought from the Refugio ,or up the road at Bar El Puro.

We did 11 routes in 4 days of climbing. Only touching the surface really. Another couple of trips should see us through most of the classics.

Start of Fiesta De Los Biceps

Sun just starting to kiss the Wall

I fell off leading this pitch. A hold broke!. Not a pleasant feeling when your 250m above the ground, and trying to swing back onto the rock.

AIR

Look close!? I Captured this guy mid base Jump.

Sleepy Riglos

Another Base Jumper came buzzing past us.

10PM

Bolt theft must be a problem!

Graeme Cruising up Mosquitos

The Awesome Fire

Catalogue image on Pecho Lobo

Pecho Lobo

High up on Visera. Thanks to Belen

Me mid route on Visera.

Awesome April

Winter now seems such a long time ago. 
It's not been my most active winter climbing season, but I have learned to ski which is a bonus.
It all seemed to finish a little too early. It was April 23rd last year when I climbed my last route of the season Kellett's Route VI,6 on the Ben in fantastic conditions, and routes were still in nick through the early part of May.

This past month has been great, with trips to :-
Great Wanney
Great End Crag
Quayfoot Buttress
Pavey Ark
Scafell (twice)
East Woodburn
Buachaille Etive Mor (Slime Wall)
Glen Lednock

Ticking 2 of the best E2's in the Country. Shibboleth E2,5c **** and Saxon E2,5c *** which normally take a long time to dry out has been my highlight this month.

Banzai Pipeline E1,5b ***

The Go Between E2,5c ***

Eclipse E4,6a ***

Eclipse E4,6a **

The Bracken Clock E2,5c **

Chartreuse E1,5b **

Chartreuse E1,5b **

Dyad E3,6a **

Slab and Groove Route VS,4c **

Shibboleth E2,5b ****

Shibboleth E2,5b ****

Shibboleth E2,5b ****

Shibboleth E2,5b ****

The Bendy

Black September E4,6a **

The Centaur HVS,5a ***

Saxon E2,5c ****

Saxon E2,5c ***

Saxon E2,5c ***

Ben Nevis 6th March

Today me and Paul Smith were back up the Ben.
Snow and bad weather are needed to bring the mixed climbing back into condition but with Spring like conditions, the snow and ice routes are starting to become very good.

 We couldnt see much in the cloud after our slog up Observatory Gully, so we opted for Indicator Wall V,4*** which was in great condition.

Paul unimpressed with the walk in!

Indicator and Gardyloo Buttress

 After decending Tower Gully we returned to the foot of Indicator Wall and the start of Pychedelic Wall VI,5***
Paul made short work of the first pitch on good ice.  Second slab pitch was very thin but climbable. Think I managed to get a couple of screws in the 3"- 4" ice slab. Good belay with rock gear at the top of this pitch.

Paul on the first pitch

Me on Second

Paul seconding the 2nd pitch

Paul then took over for the final pitch. Another excellent pitch, very much in contrast to the 2nd one with a short chimney and steep corner exit.

Happy on the 3rd pitch

This was another one of those stonking good routes the Ben can offer at this time of year.

Forecast looks good to build on conditions this coming week. So it'll be another 10hrs of driving next weekend hopefully.

SCNL 13th Feb

Wet start for me and Paul Smith this morning. The rain soon turned to heavy snow above 500m, but thankfully the forecasted wind didn't materialize.
A careful approach to Central Buttress on Stob Coire Nan Lochan was needed in waist deep snow, I was relieved  to reach the foot of our intended route Central Grooves VII,7***
I could barely look up the first pitch with so much fresh snow and sluff coming down, but I battled on up the first pitch. Clearing cracks was almost impossible at times as they refilled instantly with a constant stream of sluff.

After bringing up Paul, the snow had eased a little, making it that little bit more bearable.

Paul was happy for me to do all the pitches, so off I went up the excellent sustained but well protected 2nd pitch. Pitch 3 had the most awkward move at the start, having to mantle onto a small shelf and reach high for a small crack which allowed you to stand up.It probably was still easier than the previous 2 pitches at about VI,7 perhaps some good ice or neve makes the move a little easier.

Pitch 4 was a easy romp to the top.

I was a bit concerned about descending Broad Gully with so much fresh snow about, but fortunately there was a guided team (guinea pigs) testing it out in front of us. Awesome bum slide back to our sacks.

Only one photo today.

Top day out.